Hides and houses
Shelves and ledges
Foraging and toys
Cage accessories
Kits and bundles
Fairy forest
Spooky mischief
Sweetie stash
Game mode
Forest floor
Castles and cathedrals
Most first-time rat owners focus on cage size. Experienced owners know the contents matter just as much: a large empty cage is still a boring cage. This guide covers what has to go in, what to add for enrichment, what to buy first and which materials to avoid. For the whole picture, start at our pet rat care hub.
Rat cage accessories UK: choose the right setup pieces
If you are comparing rat cage accessories in the UK or anywhere else, give every piece a job: a place to hide, sleep, climb, eat, drink, forage or go to the toilet. Our guide on how to choose rat cage accessories helps you pick hides, shelves, foraging cups, bowls and enrichment pieces that suit your cage layout, and the rat cage size and fit calculator checks your cage against your group.
Quick summary: what do rats need in their cage?
Start with a secure, suitable cage, then plan bedding and nesting material, food and water, places to hide, and room to climb and explore. Counts and sizes depend on the cage and the rats. Themed furnishings are optional extras, not welfare requirements. Our rat cage setup guide covers sizing and bar spacing in depth, and our best rat cages guide helps you choose one.
- A large wire cage with a solid floor and several levels
- Paper-based bedding, 5 to 8 cm (2 to 3 in) deep
- Nesting material: white tissue, shredded paper or hay
- At least two water bottles
- A heavy ceramic food bowl and a scatter-feeding spot
- One more hide than you have rats
- At least one hammock or high sleeping shelf
- Ropes, ladders, shelves or branches between levels
- A litter tray in the toilet corner
- Foraging toys and safe things to chew
RSPCA housing guidance: rat habitat requirements
The RSPCA advises a cage that is as large as possible and secure, where rats can run, stretch upright, climb and explore, with varied places to hide and investigate. Its guidance also covers:
- A solid floor rather than wire mesh, which can cause foot problems
- Bars close enough that no rat can poke its head through
- Good ventilation without draughts, away from dust and dirt
- A room at 19 to 23°C (66 to 73°F), out of direct sunlight, conservatories, garages and sheds, and away from damp rooms such as bathrooms
- Light that is not too bright in the day and dark at night
- Quiet: away from high-pitched sounds, ultrasound and sudden or constant noise, such as alarms, phones, vacuum cleaners and stereos
- Regular checks for chewed areas, since rats can chew through wood and plastic
Rats also need company from other rats. The RSPCA says rats living alone can become depressed and develop abnormal behaviour even with lots of human contact. Keep them in pairs or small groups; our guide to male or female rats helps you plan the group.
Essential cage items: what cannot be left out
Once the cage is the right size and has several levels, these items are essential.
Bedding
Paper-based bedding (substrate) is our standard. It is absorbent, low in dust and good for digging. Brands such as Carefresh and Back-2-Nature are widely sold. Give enough depth for burrowing: at least 5 to 8 cm (2 to 3 in) on the main floor. Avoid sawdust and dusty shavings, scented or coloured bedding (rats have sensitive airways), and fleece-only floors with nothing absorbent underneath, because rats wee often and need something that soaks up the smell.
Sources differ on wood. The RSPCA lists non-aspen wood chips alongside cellulose chips and shredded filter paper, and warns against aspen and anything dusty; the National Fancy Rat Society lists untreated shavings among suitable bedding. We would still choose paper first, because it takes the dust question off the table. Our rat bedding guide and bedding comparison go into each type.
Add nesting material on top: the RSPCA suggests white tissue paper, hay, shredded paper and paper strips. Never use cotton wool or fluffy nesting, which can wrap around limbs.
Food and water
Heavy, open ceramic bowls are best for food: rats can't tip them and they are easy to clean. The RSPCA advises against metal bowls, which can make ultrasound noise rats hear. Water bottles clipped to the bars are the most common and reliable option. The RSPCA prefers bottles to bowls because bowls get dirty quickly, and advises several bottles so every rat can drink at once and nobody goes without if one blocks. Check them morning and evening. A bowl is more natural for drinking but needs changing far more often. Several feeding stations in a group cage cut down squabbles. See our rat drinking water guide.
Hides
The RSPCA asks for one more shelter than the number of rats, each with more than one exit, and big enough for all the rats to sleep together if they want to. Rats sleep for much of the day in several shorter rests and move between spots, so different hides suit different moods and social situations. As a minimum, give a smaller, enclosed resting space and a larger shared shelter for group sleeping. Large cardboard tubes count as shelters too.
Hammock or sleeping platform
Rats love sleeping up high. A fabric hammock hung on an upper level becomes the favourite bed for most rats. Check fabric regularly for chewing: replace it before loose threads can be swallowed or catch a foot. Our rat hammocks guide covers what to look for, and the rat hammock hanging guide covers fitting and checks.
Litter tray
Rats tend to choose one corner as a toilet. A litter tray there makes daily cleaning much faster and keeps ammonia down across the cage. Our rat cage cleaning guide sets out the routine.
Enrichment: what rats actually need beyond the basics
Rats need chances to explore, forage, climb, hide, dig and interact with compatible companions. RSPCA advice recommends varied activities and considerate handling. Aim for at least an hour of active enrichment a day, including supervised free roam outside the cage as well as things to do inside it. Review the whole setup and ask a vet about lasting behaviour changes; an accessory is not a treatment. In-cage enrichment falls into a few groups.
| Type | Examples | What it does |
|---|---|---|
| Foraging | Scatter feeding in bedding or foraging mats, puzzle feeders, food hidden in cardboard boxes and tubes, sand or gravel trays | Keeps the urge to search for food busy |
| Climbing | Natural-fibre rope bridges, ladders, cork tubes, branches, shelves | Gives routes between levels and exercise |
| Digging | A dig box of clean sand, compost or coco coir; deep bedding | Lets rats burrow as they would outdoors |
| Novel textures and objects | A new piece of safe wood, a stone, a ceramic item, a new hide | Gives them something new to sniff and inspect |
| Chewing and shredding | Safe wood, plain cardboard, paper bags | Satisfies gnawing and helps keep teeth worn |
Climbing structures. Rope bridges, ladders, cork tubes and branches link the levels. Rats rarely take the direct route from A to B if there are interesting paths available. The RSPCA asks for natural-fibre ropes such as cotton, replaced once chewed.
Novel textures and objects. Rats explore mainly by scent and touch. A new object is investigated thoroughly, and rotating objects keeps the cage interesting without constant new purchases. Our rat enrichment ideas, best rat toys and rat digging box guide have plenty more.
Never put a rat in an exercise ball. The RSPCA warns these stop rats using their whiskers to explore. If you want a wheel, read our rat wheel guide first, because a wheel that is too small can hurt a rat's back.
The hide hierarchy: more hides than you think
For a group of three or four rats, plan four or five hides of different sizes and styles. That sounds like a lot until you think about rat social life. Rats have a pecking order, and the top rats claim the best sleeping spots first. With only two hides and four rats, the lower-ranking rats get pushed out again and again, which is stressful.
Variety meets different needs too:
| Hide type | What it is for |
|---|---|
| Small, dark and enclosed | Security for anxious rats and a retreat after a squabble |
| Medium and shared | Group sleeping |
| Open platform or shelf | Resting in view, and a space with no corners to get trapped in |
| Multiple entrances | A way out of unwanted attention from a cage mate |
Make a character hide the centrepiece only after the basics are covered: bedding, water, food, several hide options, cleaning access and clear sight lines for daily checks. Choose pieces that are stable, easy to inspect and sized for the rats using them. A decorative hide should still be simple to lift, clean around and remove if the group changes. Our rat houses and hides guide compares options by fit and access.
Cage aesthetic: the community that takes setup seriously
Rat cage looks matter because many cages live in shared rooms, but the setup has to work for the rats first. Treat the look as the final layer over a practical structure: safe bedding, good ventilation, several resting places, enrichment, and clear access for cleaning and health checks.
What to buy first: priority order
For a new cage, buy in this order:
- Cage. Meets the size minimum, has several levels and bar spacing under 1.5 cm (0.6 in) for adult rats, to prevent escape and injury. Young rats need narrower gaps.
- Bedding. Paper-based, 5 to 8 cm (2 to 3 in) deep on the main floor, plus nesting material.
- Water and food stations. At least two bottles and a heavy ceramic bowl.
- Hides. At least two, one small and enclosed and one shared, then build up to one more than the number of rats.
- Hammock or sleeping platform. At an upper level.
- Basic enrichment. A foraging mat, a climbing rope, and cardboard to chew.
- Character or themed accessories. Added over time to build a look that hangs together.
Don't delay the welfare basics for a perfect look. The look can be built bit by bit; the hides, bedding and enrichment structure should be in place from day one. Our pet rat supplies list and first 30 days plan help with the first weeks.
Budgeting for rat cage accessories: entry level to full setup
Knowing where the money goes helps you prioritise. Setup costs vary hugely, from a basic welfare-minimum cage to a fully themed one. For current prices of each item, see our rat cost guide.
| Level | What it includes | What to expect |
|---|---|---|
| Entry level (welfare minimum) | A simple hammock or fleece rest, a food bowl, a water bottle, a plain hide and a bag of paper-based bedding, from general pet shops | Covers the basics but gives little variety, and rats soon show boredom behaviours |
| Mid-range (good welfare, some variety) | Several hides of different sizes, safe wooden chews, a rope or two, a foraging scatter mat, a second hammock and enough bedding for burrowing | Meets welfare needs comfortably; ongoing monthly costs are bedding and fresh enrichment materials |
| Full setup (enrichment-led and styled) | A clear theme, several hides including character pieces, a foraging station, hammocks on several levels, a dig box, toys and seasonal rotation pieces | The cage is a display as well as a home; monthly costs are similar to mid-range, because the extra spend is on lasting pieces, not consumables |
For most owners the best value is to start mid-range and invest in pieces that last, especially hides and hammock hardware. A durable hide can serve several pairs of rats over the years; cheap cardboard needs constant replacing (though plain cardboard is still a great free chew toy).
Enrichment rotation: keeping rats stimulated over time
Rats are clever and get used to things quickly. An item that is exciting in week one is background furniture within a month. Experienced owners rotate the cage contents rather than simply adding more.
The idea is simple: keep a supply of items that are not always in the cage, and swap them in and out on a schedule. A hide that has been out for two weeks is interesting again when it comes back, because the scent has faded and the layout around it has changed, so the rats investigate it like a new item. This stretches the life of every piece and keeps the cage interesting without more spending.
- Pick your fixtures. Keep a core set in place all the time: the main sleeping hide, water, food station and bedding.
- Build a rotation pool. Keep 6 to 10 extra pieces: hides, climbing toys, hanging items and dig box fillings.
- Swap weekly or fortnightly. Change one or two pieces at a time so the cage stays familiar.
- Rest returned pieces. Leave a piece out for two weeks or more before bringing it back.
- Clean as you swap. Wash pieces as they come out, so they go back in clean.
Seasons add another layer. In winter, rats appreciate more bedding and enclosed sleeping spots (see our rat temperature guide). In summer, foraging pieces and puzzle feeders suit their livelier evenings. Changing the bedding type now and then, from fine paper to a longer fibre, gives them something new to burrow through.
Distinctive hides suit rotation well because they swap in and out whole and are easy to clean between turns. Plain cardboard boxes get shredded once explored, which is fine: they are the disposable end of the rotation.
Cage-proofing materials: what is and is not appropriate
Rats chew everything. Anything in a rat cage will be investigated, gnawed and possibly eaten, so know which materials are safe before you buy.
| Use freely | Use with care | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Untreated wood from safe trees such as apple, birch, willow and poplar | Wood with any surface finish: check it is unfinished or finished only with something safe for rats | Treated or painted wood of unknown finish |
| Natural cotton and sisal rope | Synthetic fabric hammocks: choose tight weaves | Cedar, eucalyptus and fresh pine, whose aromatic oils irritate the airways |
| Uncoated natural fabric for hammocks and pouches | Fleece with long fibres or loose weaves, which catch nails | Pine and cedar shavings as bedding |
| Compressed paper products: hideaway rolls, dig box fillings | Metal pieces: smooth stainless steel or coated metal is fine; rust and sharp edges are not | Glass, which can break |
| Ceramic and fired clay: bowls, water dishes, heavy hides | Plastic: check often for chewed edges | Anything with small parts that could come loose and be swallowed |
Untreated wood satisfies the urge to gnaw and helps wear the teeth down. Our safe wood for rats guide lists the safe trees in full. Some sources include kiln-dried pine in chews; we would leave pine out, for the same aromatic-oil reasons it is kept out of bedding. Metal is fine for fittings, but use ceramic, not metal, for food bowls (RSPCA). Watch wire shelves and ramps too: the RMCA warns that mesh around 1.25 × 2.5 cm (½ × 1 in) can trap feet and legs, so cover wire levels with fabric, cork or a solid shelf.
A good rat supplier makes material and suitability information easy to check. Before adding any accessory, look for smooth edges, stable weight, suitable openings, cleanable surfaces and a shape you can inspect quickly during daily checks. See our safe shredding toys guide for paper and cardboard.
Related guides
Frequently asked questions
What is the best hide material for rats?
Rats use several hide types well: untreated wood, cardboard, fabric hammocks and pouches, ceramic hides and well-finished decorative hides. Choose pieces that are stable, have smooth edges, suitable openings and more than one exit, and are easy to clean. Avoid anything with sharp edges, loose parts or surfaces you cannot inspect.
Do I need a litter tray?
It is highly recommended. Rats tend to pick one corner for a toilet, and a litter tray in that corner makes cleaning much faster and cuts ammonia build-up across the whole cage. Fill it with a different litter from the main bedding, such as paper pellets, so the rats learn the difference.
How often should cage contents be rotated?
Swap at least one or two items a week. An item gets its full novelty back when you reintroduce it after two weeks or more out of the cage. Keep the main hide, water, food and bedding as fixtures, and rotate a pool of six to ten enrichment pieces so the cage changes without constant spending.
What do rats need in their cage at minimum?
A generous layer of low-dust bedding, a constant supply of fresh water from at least two bottles, a heavy ceramic food bowl, one more hide than you have rats, a hammock or high sleeping shelf, climbing routes between levels, nesting material and something to forage and chew. The RSPCA also asks for a solid floor.
How many hides does a rat cage need?
The RSPCA advises one more shelter than the number of rats, each with more than one exit, and at least one big enough for the whole group to sleep together. For three or four rats that means four or five hides of different sizes, so lower-ranking rats always have somewhere to go.
Do rats need a wheel?
Not always. Many adult rats ignore wheels, and an undersized wheel can hurt their backs and tails. If you add one, it needs a solid running surface and a big diameter so the rat runs with a straight back. Our rat wheel guide covers sizes and alternatives such as more free roam.
What should I avoid putting in a rat cage?
Avoid cedar, eucalyptus and fresh pine (their aromatic oils irritate the airways), sawdust, scented or coloured bedding, cotton wool and fluffy nesting, painted or varnished wood of unknown finish, glass, metal food bowls, exercise balls and anything with small parts that could come loose and be swallowed.
