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Why do rabbits like tunnels?
Rabbits are burrowing prey animals, and a tunnel gives them cover. The RSPCA describes a tunnel as a backup burrow and says it should have both an entrance and an exit so rabbits don't feel trapped. PDSA lists tunnels and boxes among the things that keep rabbits busy, and says busy rabbits are much less likely to chew their hutch or your furniture.
Tunnels also help rabbits who live together. A worried rabbit can dash out of sight, and two ways out means a bossy rabbit can't corner a shy one. The RSPCA asks for as many hiding places as there are rabbits, plus one more, each with more than one opening. Our rabbit behaviour guide explains the zoomies, thumps and flops you'll see around a good tunnel.
What size tunnel does a rabbit need?
| Rabbit | Examples | Tunnel width we'd choose |
|---|---|---|
| Dwarf | Netherland dwarf, mini lop | 15 to 20 cm (6 to 8 in) |
| Medium | Dutch, Rex, most crossbreeds | 18 to 22 cm (7 to 8.7 in) |
| Large | French lop, Californian | 22 to 25 cm (8.7 to 10 in) |
| Giant | Flemish giant, Continental giant | 25 cm (10 in) or more, or boxes |
Watch your rabbit use it. If it has to flatten its ears and wriggle, the tunnel is too tight. Length is up to you, but long tunnels must be easy to reach into so you can clean them and lift a rabbit out if needed.
Best materials for rabbit tunnels
Rabbits chew everything, so choose a tunnel that is safe to chew or tough enough not to break into pieces.
| Material | Good for | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Cardboard boxes and tubes | Free, chewable, easy to change | Remove tape and staples; replace when soggy |
| Willow, hay or seagrass | Edible hide and chew | Often small; bin once soiled or chewed through |
| Rigid plastic tube | Linking hutch to run; outdoors | Wide enough, ventilated, no chewed sharp edges |
| Ceramic or clay pipe | Heavy, cool in summer, lasts for years | A wide diameter, as the RSPCA says; smooth edges |
| Fabric (crinkle, fleece) | Soft, light, indoors | Must hold its shape; supervise; remove if chewed |
Fabric is the riskiest choice. RSPCA Australia warns that cotton and natural fibres can block a rabbit's gut if eaten, and floppy play tunnels can collapse on a rabbit inside. Buyers of one cheap 18 cm polyester tunnel report rabbits getting stuck when it folded. Only use fabric tunnels that stay open on their own, under supervision.
DIY and cardboard rabbit tunnels
The best tunnels are often free. The RSPCA suggests cardboard boxes with holes cut in each end, tubes, and large ceramic pipes with a wide diameter.
- Collect strong boxes. Plain cardboard boxes big enough for your rabbit to sit up in, with tape, staples and plastic windows removed.
- Cut the doorways. Cut a hole in each end, a little wider than your rabbit's shoulders, with rounded corners.
- Join them up. Line the boxes up end to end and join the doorways, so you have a long tunnel with two ways out.
- Add a lookout. Cut one hole in the top of a middle box so your rabbit can pop up and check the room.
- Stuff with hay. Push some hay into the ends. The RSPCA suggests tubes stuffed with hay for foraging.
- Replace often. Swap boxes once they are chewed thin, wet or soiled, and change the layout every week or so.
A tunnel near the litter tray or hay pile gets used far more than one in an empty corner. Rabbits travel the same routes every day, so put the tunnel on a path they already run.
Outdoor tunnels and hutch-to-run tunnels
Outdoors, a tunnel can join a hutch to a run, or join two runs. The RSPCA suggests tunnels to connect an enclosure to an extra run for more exercise space. This lets rabbits choose when to go out, which is much better than being shut in a hutch. Use a rigid tunnel that a fox or cat can't flatten, fix both ends firmly, and check it every day for gaps, chewing and puddles. Our guides to rabbit playpens and runs and hutch covers help you keep the whole setup dry.
How to set up tunnels in a rabbit home
- At least one hiding place per rabbit, plus one spare
- At least one hide big enough for all your rabbits to rest together
- Every tunnel open at both ends
- Tunnels away from draughts and direct sun
- Room left to run, hop and stretch out flat
- A digging box nearby, such as a tray of earth or a box of shredded paper
- Toys rotated regularly so the space stays interesting
The RSPCA says frequent or long use of hiding places can be a sign of illness, stress or fear. If your rabbit suddenly lives in its tunnel, check it is eating and passing droppings normally and ring a vet if not. See our rabbit cage setup guide for full layouts.
Best rabbit tunnels
We don't make pieces for rabbits yet, so these are from other shops we'd look at.
Omlet Zippi Tunnel Twin Pack
Two flexible, ventilated tunnels, each 90 cm (35.4 in) long and 18 cm (7.1 in) across, that can stand alone or join a hutch to a run with connectors. Best for small and medium rabbits and outdoor setups. Omlet notes they are not fully chew-proof.
Omlet Zippi Tunnel with Hutch to Run Connection Kit
The same 18 cm (7.1 in) tunnel with fittings to link a hutch to a run, sold in the US. Corners and T-junctions let you build a route between several areas.
SnuggleSafe Bunny Warren
A flexible, washable tunnel 21 cm (8.3 in) across and 76 cm (30 in) long, made for rabbits. A good indoor tunnel for medium rabbits. Check it holds its shape with your rabbit inside.
Trixie Willow Tunnel, 20 × 38 cm
A natural willow tunnel 20 cm (8 in) across and 38 cm (15 in) long. Chewable and sturdy enough for small and medium rabbits. Choose this size, not the 10 cm version, which is too narrow for a rabbit.
Rosewood Naturals Sea Grass Tunnel
Woven seagrass with no glue or wire, so it is safe to nibble. Short and fairly narrow, so best for dwarf rabbits or as an edible hide rather than a run-through tunnel.
Oxbow Timothy CLUB Tunnel
Hand-woven from timothy hay, so the whole thing is edible fibre. About 23 cm (9 in) long, so it works as a hide and chew for smaller rabbits more than as a tunnel to race through.
For more ideas, see our best rabbit toys, best rabbit hides and rabbit enrichment guides, and the complete rabbit care guide.
Rabbit tunnel questions
Do rabbits like tunnels?
Yes. Wild rabbits live in burrows, and the RSPCA calls a tunnel a backup burrow that helps pet rabbits feel safe. Most rabbits run through them, hide in them and lie in them. Give a tunnel two open ends so no rabbit gets cornered, and put it where they already like to rest or run.
What size tunnel does a rabbit need?
Wide enough to pass through without squeezing and, ideally, to turn round. Tunnels sold for rabbits are usually 18 to 21 cm (7 to 8.3 in) across, which suits small and medium breeds. No welfare body sets a figure, so for big breeds we'd reason from the rabbit's size and choose 25 cm (10 in) or more.
Are fabric tunnels safe for rabbits?
Only with care. RSPCA Australia warns that cotton and natural fibres can block a rabbit's gut if eaten, and cheap fabric tunnels can collapse on a rabbit inside. Choose a sturdy tunnel that holds its shape, supervise use, and remove it as soon as it is being chewed or the fabric frays.
Can I make a tunnel for my rabbit?
Yes, easily. Cardboard boxes with a hole cut in each end, lined up in a row, make an excellent free tunnel, and the RSPCA suggests large ceramic pipes with a wide diameter too. Use plain cardboard with tape and staples removed, and replace boxes once they are soggy or chewed thin.
Can I use a tunnel to connect a hutch to a run?
Yes. The RSPCA suggests tunnels to link an enclosure to an extra run, which gives rabbits more space and lets them choose when to go out. Use a rigid, predator-resistant tunnel with secure fittings at both ends, check it daily for gaps and chewing, and make sure rain can't pool inside.
Are edible tunnels like hay and willow good for rabbits?
Yes, as a hide and a chew. Hay, willow and seagrass tunnels are safe for rabbits to nibble and add something to forage at. They don't last long and many are small, so check the opening suits your rabbit, and bin them once soiled, damp or chewed through.
