Rabbit diet: what to feed every day

What do I feed a rabbit?

A rabbit's diet is mostly hay. The RSPCA, PDSA and Wood Green all give the same split: about 85% hay and grass, 10% leafy greens, herbs and safe weeds, and 5% pellets or nuggets. The Scottish Government's rabbit welfare guidance puts the hay and grass share at "at least 80%". Everything else, fruit, carrots and shop treats included, fits into a sliver on top.

The reason is how a rabbit is built. Their teeth never stop growing, and only hours of chewing long, tough fibre each day wears them down evenly. The same fibre keeps their gut moving. Wild rabbits graze grass and other plants for much of the day, mainly at dawn and dusk, and a pet rabbit's gut expects the same. Too little fibre and too much starch or sugar leads to overgrown teeth, gut slowdown, a dirty bottom and weight gain, the problems that fill rabbit vets' waiting rooms.

Hay: the best rabbit food there is

Hay is not bedding with benefits, it is the main meal. Give at least a rabbit-sized pile of fresh feeding hay every day, and top it up so it never runs out. Good hay is green to pale green, sweet-smelling and dust-free. PDSA points out that feeding hay is fresher and greener than bedding hay, which is drier and less nutritious, so buy the bag labelled for eating.

Grass hays such as timothy, meadow, orchard and oat hay all suit adult rabbits. Alfalfa (lucerne) hay is too rich in calcium and protein for most adults; HouseRabbit.org keeps it for growing babies and nursing mothers. Fresh growing grass is even better than hay if your rabbits can graze safely. Never feed lawnmower clippings: the RSPCA and PDSA both warn they can make rabbits ill. If you cut grass for them, use scissors and feed it straight away.

If your rabbit picks at hay, try a different type or a different bag before giving up. Some rabbits refuse one cut and wolf down another. A rabbit that stops eating hay altogether may have sore teeth, so see a vet.

Rabbit food pellets: which kind and how much?

Choose plain, high-fibre pellets or nuggets where every piece looks the same. HouseRabbit.org suggests timothy-based pellets with at least 18% fibre and no added fruit, seeds, nuts, corn or yoghurt drops. In the UK, Wood Green names Burgess Excel Rabbit Nuggets as an example of a good-quality pellet.

Keep the portion small. Sources agree on the idea and differ on the exact amount:

• RSPCA and the Scottish Government: up to 25 g per kg of body weight a day (about 0.4 oz per 2.2 lb), roughly an egg cup for a medium rabbit.
• Burgess: around one egg cup a day per rabbit.
• PDSA: one tablespoon a day, or two for rabbits over 3.5 kg (7.7 lb).
• HouseRabbit.org: a quarter of a US cup per 6 lb (2.7 kg) of rabbit.

We would start at an egg cup for a medium adult and treat 25 g per kg as a ceiling, then adjust by body shape. If your rabbit is getting round or leaving hay, cut back. Never keep topping up the bowl: a rabbit full of pellets eats less hay. Growing, pregnant, nursing or underweight rabbits may need more, so ask your vet.

Leafy greens: the daily salad

Give a large adult handful of washed leafy greens, herbs and safe weeds every day, and rotate them. PDSA suggests aiming for five to six different kinds of fresh plant, grass or veg each day. HouseRabbit.org gives a bigger US figure: at least 2 cups of chopped greens per 6 lb (2.7 kg) of rabbit daily.

Good everyday choices from the RSPCA and PDSA lists include romaine lettuce, spring greens, rocket (arugula), watercress, kale, carrot tops, fennel, celery leaves and herbs such as coriander (cilantro), basil, mint, dill and parsley. Cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and spinach are fine in smaller amounts. Dandelion is a favourite and safe, though PDSA says to keep it to small amounts because it makes rabbits wee more. Skip iceberg lettuce: it is mostly water and adds little. Our full rabbit safe food list has every green, herb and weed sorted by how often to feed it.

Favourite rabbit food and healthy treats

Most rabbits go wild for sweet things, which is exactly why treats need a firm limit. Safe fruit treats named by PDSA and Burgess include apple (no pips, which are poisonous), banana, pear, strawberries, kiwi, melon and plums. PDSA gives a portion of one eighth of an apple or pear. HouseRabbit.org says no more than about 1 teaspoon of fruit per 2 lb (0.9 kg) of rabbit a day.

Carrots are a treat too. They are high in sugar and low in fibre, and Burgess points out wild rabbits don't naturally dig up root vegetables. Carrot tops are the better choice. See whether rabbits can eat carrots and how much banana is safe for exact portions.

For low-sugar treats, try herbs, dried flowers, or strawberry, blackberry and raspberry leaves, which Burgess suggests instead of fruit. On days you give a treat, take a little off the pellets. Skip yoghurt drops, seed bars and brightly coloured chews.

What to feed baby, young and older rabbits

Young rabbits have touchy guts, so change their food slowly and keep fresh foods simple at first. HouseRabbit.org gives this US schedule:

UK charities give less detail on babies and more caution about rich foods. We would follow the HouseRabbit.org timings for when to add greens and switch hay, but keep pellets measured rather than unlimited once a young rabbit is eating plenty of hay, and ask the rescue or breeder what they were fed so you change nothing in the first two weeks. Older rabbits often lose weight or develop tooth trouble, so weigh them monthly and ask your vet before changing their food.

How to change a rabbit's diet safely

Any sudden change can upset a rabbit's gut. PDSA says to change over 2 to 4 weeks, and the RSPCA and Scottish Government give 14 to 28 days for moving off muesli.

1. Start with hay. Make sure unlimited hay is there before you touch anything else, so the gut has its fibre while the rest changes.
2. Mix in a little. Replace a small part of the old pellets or muesli with the new food, about a quarter, for several days.
3. Shift the balance. Every few days, add more new food and take away the same amount of old, over 2 to 4 weeks in all.
4. Add greens one at a time. Bring in one new green every few days, in a small amount, so you can tell which one disagrees if droppings go soft.
5. Watch the droppings. Look for plenty of round, dry droppings every day. If they get small, soft or few, slow down and call your vet if it lasts more than a day.

What do I feed a wild rabbit?

Usually nothing. Wild rabbits graze grass, weeds and other plants, and a garden with an untreated lawn and wild corners already feeds them well. Putting out pet food, bread or carrots can upset their gut and draw them towards roads, pets and predators.

If you find a baby wild rabbit, the RSPCA's advice is clear: do not try to give it food or water, as this can do more harm than good. If it is not hurt, leave it and watch from about 100 m (330 ft) away; its mother only visits briefly. Only rescue it if it is injured, has been caught by a cat or dog, is covered in fly eggs, its eyes are still closed, or it is still alone two hours after sunset. Then put it in a towel-lined box somewhere warm and quiet, and ring a vet or wildlife rescue.

Critical care rabbit food: when a rabbit stops eating

A rabbit that stops eating, or stops passing droppings, needs a vet the same day. The Rabbit Welfare Association says that for gut slowdown, "tomorrow" will be too late, and that you should not give gut medicines you have at home, because a blockage needs ruling out first.

Your vet may send you home with a recovery food, a powdered high-fibre food you mix with warm water and give by syringe. Burgess, Lafeber, Oxbow (Critical Care) and Supreme all make one. The Rabbit Welfare Association gives a typical guide of 8 to 12 ml per kg of mixture four times a day, no more than 1 ml per mouthful, given into the side of the mouth with the rabbit standing normally. Let your vet set the amount and show you how, and keep offering fresh greens and hay to tempt them. For other warning signs, see our rabbit health guide.

Water: bowl or bottle?

Fresh water must be there all the time. A heavy ceramic bowl is best, because many rabbits drink more from a bowl than a bottle, and a bottle can block or leak. Clean the container and refill it every day, check it twice a day, and in winter check outdoor water for ice. The complete rabbit care guide covers the rest of the daily routine, and our rabbit enrichment guide shows how to turn hay and pellets into foraging games.